Mud Hills Wash to Elephant Knees | ABDSP

On New Year's day, 2015, I was able to get out of town for hike through Mud Hills Wash, which would be hike #2 of my 52 Hike Challenge.  This five-mile route, in the desolate Carrizo Badlands of Anza-Borrego Desert State Park takes you through the magical mud hills on the edge of the badlands and up to the top of the Elephant Knees mesa where you can see the vastness and density of the area's oyster shell reefs. This area is so dense with fossilized shells and shell fragments that they seem to outnumber the materials in which they are embedded. The view is one where you can take in much of the Fish Creek drainage and trace its geological history.

"This is the desert at its lowest, hottest, and- to the unappreciative eye- most unfriendly. To those who know it well, however, it is a fascinating labyrinth of rugged canyons, twisted arroyos, and mud hills, containing not only some of nature's best examples of earth sculpture, but also a complete sequence of animal fossils. In truth, it's not unfriendly at all. Even the weather is beautiful- at least from late fall into early spring." - Jerry Schad, Afoot & Afield In San Diego County 

Google satellite view of Elephant Knees mesa.

To get to the desert I have to drive through the mountains, which usually isn't an issue. However, with the recent snowfall, I knew the crowds would be flocking to the higher elevations of the county. I was getting a late start so to avoid getting caught in the bumper-to-bumper traffic heading up the highways, I took Boulder Creek Road. This mostly graded dirt route would allow me to bypass the majority of the traffic.

As the route climbs, I begin to see this seldom seem white stuff on the hills above.

Looking west towards El Cajon Mountain, informally known as "El Capitan." Beyond that I could also discern the faint outline Cowls Mountain, the highest point in the City of San Diego.

This route takes you through Cleveland National Forest. This sign is located at a hairpin turn in the road and the trail heads for Eagle Peak and Three Sisters Waterfall.

Snow covered mountains of Anza-Borrego Desert State Park come into view as I make my way down Banner Grade.

Eventually, I reached Ocotillo Wells SVRA, turned south on Split Mountain Road off Highway 78, and onto the sandy wash of Fish Creek, which is typically dry and firm in late fall and winter but possibly slippery with mud following a major storm. Ahead looms Split Mountain, with cliff-like walls that occasionally shed rock debris onto the trail below. I make a quick stop at the dramatic thumbprint-shaped Anticline- ancient sea floor sedimentary layers that were pushed and buckled by an earthquake eons ago.

Parked in Fish Creek, along with a number of other folks out enjoying the day.

Mud Hills Wash begins just around the bend from the Windcaves trail. It comes into the main fork of Fish Creek 0.3 miles west of the Windcaves trail marker. There is an information panel on oyster shells reefs on a knoll next to it (west side).

Parts of the wash were still muddy from the recent rains. My guidebook said that you'll accumulate about two inches of mud on your boots if its wet, but that's all part of the fun.

Walk past the "Closed to Vehicles" sign and follow the meandering path of Mud Hills Wash into the maze-like badlands. You may see such things as glass-like gypsum crystals, loose shells, indications of recent flooding (mud flows or mud curls) and lots of fragile plant life along the trail. Keep in mind that no collecting of fossils is allowed in the state park.

As you wind along, you should be able to keep the flat-topped Elephant Knees mesa in view. Keep following the main wash around to the right (west) as the object is to get to the backside slope of this formation, which you should arrive at in 1.5 miles.

Making my way around the mesa, through the mud hills.

Falling into one of these would probably ruin my day.

Here is where I began my assent to the top. These massive blocks are part of a 12 to 15 foot thick Oyster Shell reef embedded within the butte, left behind when it was still a part of the Gulf of California. Although the climb was very steep at times, it provided good traction, but its also razor-sharp, so I had to pick my way carefully.

Looking back at my route up the butte.

A close-up of the embedded Oyster Shell reef.

Still climbing.

Looking southwest across the badlands with Carrizo Mountain in the distance.

Looking west, I can make out the distant conical shape of Sombrero Peak.

At the lip of the Elephant Knees formation you will be able to look down at the knees and the point at which you started your walk- and a large portion of Fish Creek Wash with its surrounding hills and mountains.

Selfie at the top!

After taking in the views, I make my way along the lip of the mesa and back down into the mud hills. Walking along the edge was definitely exhilarating and the highlight of the hike.

Last look at the Elephant Knees as I make my way back to Fish Creek.

Moon rise over the mud hills.

Arriving back at my Jeep parked along Fish Creek Wash.

On the way out I stopped in the narrows of Split Mountain, along with a few others, to enjoy the views.

Some of my earliest and favorite memories of camping and exploring this area are here with my parents back in the 1980's. It was a great way to start the new year and I'm looking forward to getting out again soon. If you are interested in geology, fossils, or amazing desert terrain this area is a must see. Happy trails everyone!

GETTING THERE: To find Mud Hills Wash, drive east on Highway 78 to Ocotillo Wells and turn right on Split Mountain Road. Drive south 8 miles until you cross a dry creek bed with a sign indicating Fish Creek Wash. Turn right (west) onto the dirt road leading into the wash and follow it 4.5 miles, bearing to the left at the Windcaves trail marker to remain in the main wash.

At 0.3 miles you should see the Oyster Shell Wash information panel, where your trek begins. Most times of the year the road into Fish Creek tends to be accessible to 2-wheel drive vehicles, although 4-wheel drive is always recommended. Check at the Visitor Center for road conditions before setting out on your adventure. As you travel along Fish Creek Wash on your way to the beginning of the hike you will be going through Split Mountain Canyon, which in itself is worth taking the time to see. Some people may prefer to begin their walk through this area beginning at the Fish Creek Primitive Camp. Doing so would add another 5 miles to your hike (round trip).

52 Hike Challenge Stats

Date: 01-01-2015
Distance: 5 miles
Elevation Gain/Loss: 675'/675'

Truckhaven & Ocotillo Wells SVRA

Truckhaven Hills, at the northern part of Ocotillo Wells State Vehicular Recreation Area, is located near the Salton Sea in California and is the venue for the popular annual Tierra Del Sol Desert Safari. The area is a maze of deeply cut trenches and sharp ridges, extremely narrow canyons with tight turns, near vertical climbs and cliff-like descents.

The Tierra Del Sol Desert Safari provides an excellent opportunity to enjoy and explore this area. Started back in 1950’s by a small group from the El Cajon Search and Rescue (SAR) team of four wheeling enthusiasts, this has gone on to become the Tierra Del Sol Four Wheel Drive Club. Every year 4x4 enthusiasts gather for the annual weekend event at the Truckhaven hills. The Tierra Del Sol 4x4 Club of San Diego members layout and mark the trails for the organized trail runs.

After my Middle Willows hike in Upper Coyote Canyon, I met up with my family where we would be camping for the rest of the weekend. My wife's parents graciously invited us to stay with them in their tent trailer.

This would be Jackson's third camping trip.

Everyone was always bundled up in the morning.

Far below our camp we could spot others out having a blast along the hills and washes.

Our first order of business was checking out the Truckhaven 4X4 Training Area.

The Truckhaven 4X4 Training Area consists of 22 colorfully named obstacles spread across 30 acres in the northern section of the park. Built out of heavy equipment tires, logs, concrete tubes, boulders and more, these obstacles are ranked in three difficulty ratings. Here, my wife's cousin displays his Jeep Cherokee on the flex test. 

That's some mad flex; stock Wranglers represent!

This one-of-a-kind destination is the result of a dynamic partnership between the State Parks, the Tierra del Sol Jeep Club, and W.E. Rock. The materials used were donated by a variety of stakeholders, and the course was designed to protect the area’s desert flavor. Recent additions include a vehicle-free, shaded observation area with picnic tables to watch the action, plus restrooms. ATVs and motorcycles are prohibited from the area.

This is how high everyone felt comfortable going up the obstacle.

I ended up getting a little too tired on the "GET TIRED" obstacle.

Now off to explore more of the Truckhaven Hills area.

Our son slept through his first off-road outing. I've known parents who were terrified to take their children off-highway until they were a few years old, let alone six months.

A closer exploration of the area reveals petrified wood.

Besides exploring a few of the nearby trails with the Jeep, much of our time was spent relaxing around camp.

No more digging holes in the dirt for us!

My wife's uncle having fun with a few of his RC planes.

Our view from camp.

Whenever I strayed from camp, Audrey was more than happy to come along.

I couldn't think of a better way to end the year; spending time with those I love in a place I love to explore. We had just barely scratched the surface of exploring this area. I look forward to coming back again sometime.